美丽中国第三集

The Tibetan plateau is a quarter of China.

西藏高原的陆地面积约占中国领土的四分之一

Much of it is extremely remote and inhospitable.

其中的大部分极度偏远荒无人烟

Its southern border runs through the world's highest mountain range,

南部边界贯穿了世界上最高的山脉

the formidable Himalayas.

望而生畏的喜马拉雅山

Its central part is a windswept and freezing

中部是暴露在风中的寒冷荒地

wilderness the size of Western Europe.

其面积与西欧相似

But this challenging place is home to incredible wildlife.

难以置信这个具有挑战性的地方竟然是野生动物的家园

There are more large creatures here than anywhere else in China.

这里的大型生物比中国其它任何地方还要多

Tibet has been a province of China for more than 50 years,

西藏加入到新中国这个大家庭五十多年来

yet it has a unique character,

有着1000多年悠久历史的的藏传佛教

shaped by over 1,000 years of Tibetan Buddhism.

依旧保持着她独特的风貌

This obscure and archaic-looking religion

这个鲜为人知的散发着古老气息的宗教

has produced one of the most enlightened cultures on Earth.

孕育了这个世界上最开明的文化

Here,people have a long tradition of co-existing peacefully

在这里人们与自然界

with the creatures and landscape around them,

和谐相处的悠久传统

a relationship which has helped to protect their fragile environment.

促进了对脆弱自然环境的保护

In this programme we will discover why this harsh land with its ancient

在这个节目中我们将展示这块承载着古老文化的厚重土地

culture is vitally important for much of our planet.

对我们的地球来说是多么的重要

It's the beginning of winter,

初冬

high up on the Tibetan plateau.

高高的青藏高原之上

The temperature will soon drop to minus 40 Celsius.

气温会骤降到零下40摄氏度

Out here,life is reduced to a single imperative - survival.

在这里生命中只剩下唯一的念头——求存

For the argali,the world's largest sheep,

对于这只盘羊世界上最大的羊而言

it means searching for a few tufts of grass.

这就意味着寻找几簇草丛

Their life-giving waters are also important to people.

其间的水也使得人类的生命得以延续

Tibetan religion is a unique mix of Buddhism and much older

西藏的宗教是佛教与曾经在此地广为流传的

Shamanic beliefs that were once widespread throughout the region.

古老萨满教的独特的混合体

This hybrid religion forms the basis of an extraordinary relationship with nature.

这种混合信仰构成了他们与自然独特关系的基础

In Shamanic belief,the land is imbued with magical properties

在萨满教义中这片土地被赋予了魔力

which aid communication with the spirit world.

使之能够帮助与精神世界进行交流

Here animal skulls are decorated,and rocks are carved with sacred mantras,

在这里动物的头骨被装饰起来岩石 也刻上了神圣的曼特拉(传统的颂歌)

groups of syllables that are considered to have spiritual power.

人们认为那些音节拥有精神的力量

The reciting of the mantras is believed to create a magical sound

人们相信诵读这些曼特拉能够产生魔音

that reverberates through the universe. 在宇宙中回响

The landscape is decorated with multi-coloured flags which

大地被分别代表了金木水火土五种元素的

represent the five elements - fire,wood,earth,water and iron.

多彩的经幡装饰着

The flags are printed with prayers to purify the air and pacify the gods,

经幡上印着祷文用以净化空气安抚神灵

and the wind blows the prayers to heaven.

而风会把这些祈祷带向天堂。

The poles on which the prayer flags are mounted are regularly replenished with fresh flags.

印着祷文的经幡所装裱的番杆经常会被换上新的经幡

The old flags are treasured. Those nearest the top of the pole

而旧的经幡很是珍贵那些最接近番杆顶部的

are the most auspicious,so competition for these can get fierce!

经幡更是象征着吉祥如意所以经幡的争夺可能会很激烈

The golden dome,which is mounted right at the top of the prayer pole,

番杆顶部的金顶

is the most sacred object of all.

是所有物体当中最神圣的

Or it will be,once it's retrieved.

至少一旦它被降下来之后是这样。

The old Shamanic beliefs of Tibet ascribed magical powers to the landscape.

古老的萨满教把魔法的力量归功于这片土地.

But there's a far more tangible source of power here

但这里还有的更多可以感知的力量

which owes nothing at all to magic.

却和魔法没有一丁点关系

Strewn across the plateau are boiling thermal springs,

散布于高原上的是滚烫的温泉

the evidence of mighty natural forces

这是在这里有百万年历史的

which have been at work over millions of years.

浑厚的自然力量存在的证据

Deep below the surface,the vast continental plates

在地下深处巨大的亚洲板块和

of Asia and India are crashing into each other.

印度板块互相冲击

The turmoil below erupts in clouds of sulphurous steam.

地下的混乱状态使大量含硫的蒸汽喷薄而出

It seems unlikely that scalding mineral springs should support life.

由滚烫的矿物泉来孕育生命听起来并不太可能

But one unlikely creature thrives here precisely because of them.

但确实有种不寻常的生物因之而繁衍兴旺

The hot spring snake is unique to Tibet

这种温泉蛇是西藏所特有的

and is believed to have survived the inhospitable conditions up

人们把它在高原艰苦环境存活下来的原因

on the plateau principally thanks to this natural central heating.

主要归功于这里的天然地热

These cold-blooded snakes hang out in streams and rivers which are fed

这些冷血的蛇在由温泉形成的溪流中游弋

by the hot springs,where they enjoy a surprisingly productive lifestyle.

在温泉中它们无忧无虑的生活着

Slipping into the warm water,they wait patiently,bobbing their heads on the look-out for fish.

滑进温暖的水中耐心地等待脑袋在水面上下疾动静等鱼儿上钩

Thanks to its unlikely relationship with the volcanic forces which built the Himalayas,

正由于与形成喜马拉雅山的火山的不寻常关系

the hot spring snake is able to survive.

温泉蛇才得以生存在

at altitudes up to 4,500 metres,

海拔4500米的地方

making it the highest-living snake in the world.

这使它成为了世界上过着“最奢侈”的生活的蛇

The slow-motion crash between Asia and India

亚洲和印度板块之间的缓慢运动

has been going on for 30 million years.

已经持续了3千万年之久。

The Himalayas are the crumple-zone created by these two colliding landmasses,

喜马拉雅山脉就是这两个大陆板块撞击后的结果

a bewildering maze of mountains and valleys,

它是一个山峦和山谷的迷宫

home to elusive wild creatures.

也是各种难以捉摸的野生动物的家园

In this rugged and unforgiving terrain,

在这个多岩的恶劣环境中

littered with fractured rock and ice cold rivers,

散落着各种碎石和冰冷的河流

the slightest miscalculation may have fatal consequences.

极微小的失误也可能导致致命的后果

The snow leopard is the world's highest-living big cat.

雪豹是世界上居住的海拔最高的猫科动物

But there's another,smaller predator that ranges even higher,

但这里还有一种更小的食肉动物它居住在海拔更高的地方

almost to the roof of the world.

几乎是在世界之巅

At a mind-numbing 8,848 metres high,

在令人目眩的海拔8848米的高度看

Everest is one of the most hostile places for life on Earth.

珠穆朗玛峰是地球上最危险的地方之一

Hundreds of people have died trying to conquer it.

数百人在试图征服它的尝试中死于非命

But when climbers first reached the ice fields three quarters of the way

但当攀登者们第一次完成登山之路的四分之三的之时

up the mountain,something had already beaten them to it.

有种生物早已在这方面打败了他们。

This jumping spider is the highest permanent resident on the planet.

这种跳蜘蛛是地球上海拔最高的永久居住民

Totally at home amongst the glaciers of Everest,

在珠穆朗玛峰的冰川之中

it scours the slopes for wind-borne prey such as springtails.

它在斜坡上四处搜索靠风飞行的猎物比如弹尾虫。

Chinese call this fierce little hunter the "fly tiger".

中国人把这种小而凶猛的猎食者成为“飞虎”

Jumping spiders are found all over the world.

跳蜘蛛在世界各地都有分布

Their eight eyes include an oversized central pair,

他们的八对眼睛中有一对很大

which act like powerful binoculars to spot potential victims.

像双筒望远镜一样四处搜寻潜在的目标

They use hydraulic pressure to work their legs like pistons,

他们利用水压使腿像活塞一样

catapulting up to 30 times their own body length.

可以弹跳到30倍于他们体长的高度

The ideal way to get around in rocky terrain.

这是在山地中行走的理想方法

But like all mountaineers,they always secure a safety line first.

但像其他的登山者一样他们也总是先确认哪里是“安全线”

A springtail grazes on detritus,

一个弹尾虫正盯着碎石屑

unaware that it's being stalked by such an acrobatic predator.

对这个耍杂技般的掠夺者的潜行跟踪浑然不觉

The Tibetans call Everest "Qomolangma",

藏民们把珠穆朗玛峰称为“Qomolangma(珠穆朗玛)”

True to form,the crafty fox claims the prize.

要说真正聪明的狡猾的狐狸绝对可以胜任

A combination of inaccessibility,and ancient traditions which forbid hunting,

由于动物难以捕获并且有世代相传的禁止猎杀的传统

means that in some parts of the plateau,

这使得即使在今天

wild animals have remained relatively undisturbed,even today.

在高原的一些地方野生动物都相对没有被打扰

But in those areas which are within reach of motor vehicles,

但是在那些汽车可以到达的地方

these historical safeguards have been undermined.

那些传统的保护已经渐渐被打破

This change is illustrated in the fortunes of the chiru.

这种变化从藏羚羊的身上得到了体现

A century ago,millions migrated across the plateau.

一个世纪以来上百万的藏羚羊在高原上迁徙

Unfortunately for the chiru,its fur,known as "shahtoosh",

不幸的是被称为“沙图什”或者

or "king of wools",is highly prized.

“羊毛之王”的藏羚羊的毛皮被认为有很高的价值

In recent decades,poachers have been able to venture

近几十年以来偷猎者冒险深入荒原

deep into the wilderness,killing thousands of chiru.

捕杀了成千上万头藏羚羊

However,the situation is improving.

但是情况正在逐步好转

Anti-poaching laws are now actively enforced so every summer,

反偷猎法已经生效所以每年夏天，

female chiru can head to the birthing grounds in relative safety.

母藏羚羊可以相对安全地带领羊群到繁衍的地方

Out on the plateau,new-born chiru are vulnerable to predators,

在高原上新出生的藏羚羊容易受到肉食动物的攻击

so the mothers must try to hide and protect them.

所以母藏羚羊必须把他们藏起来保护它们

The most recent problem faced by the chiru is the new Tibet-Qinghai

藏羚羊最近遇到的最大的问题就是青藏铁路的修建

railway,which cuts right through their traditional migration routes.

正好阻断了它们经常迁徙的路

Running nearly 2,000 kilometres through some of the highest

青藏铁路蜿蜒2000多公里经过世界上最高的地带

terrain on Earth,the railway is an astonishing technical feat.

它的修建是震惊世界的壮举

It's too early to see its effect on the wildlife,

评论它对野生动物的影响还为时过早

but the engineers have made efforts to incorporate underpasses

但工程师们已经设计了高架桥来让

where wildlife can cross the line in safety.

野生动物能安全地穿过铁路

As the modern world increasingly impacts on Tibet,

由于现代世界对西藏与日俱增的影响

its traditions could be in danger of being eroded.

西藏的传统文化正面临影响

But thanks to the sheer scale of this remote region,

但是正是由于这个地方的偏僻

there are still many wild places that have so far remained largely intact.

这里才有许多荒原至今仍保留着未被人类开垦的自然状态

The least explored area of all is found in Tibet's far south east.

最少被探索的地域在西藏偏远的东南部

Here the Yarlung River,Tibet's longest,

西藏最长的雅鲁藏布江 has carved through the Himalayas,

在喜马拉雅山脉中留下了深深的印痕

allowing monsoon clouds from India to pass through.

使得从印度吹来的季风和云可以从中穿过

This is Tibet's most secret corner.

这里是西藏最神秘的角落

According to legend,the Yarlung gorge

根据传说雅鲁藏布江大峡谷

was rendered magically invisible in the eighth century

在十八世纪奇迹般地消失了

and can only be seen by those who have attained sufficient spiritual knowledge and wisdom.

只有那些具有高尚品德和聪明才智的人才能看到

At two days' walk from the nearest road,

这个神秘的地方离最近的路有两天的路程

this hidden region wasn't explored by outsiders until the 1990s.

直到20世纪90年代才被世人发现

Thanks to the annual monsoon,

多亏了季风的帮助

the whole landscape is covered in lush forest.

才使这个地方苍翠繁茂

The scale of the gorge is breathtaking.

峡谷之大让人心惊胆战

As the Yarlung River cuts through the mountains,it's created the world's

雅鲁藏布江从山峦间穿过形成了世界最深的峡谷

deepest gorge,three times deeper than America's Grand Canyon.

比美国大峡谷深三倍多

This vast and mysterious place provides a vital clue to Tibet's importance for the rest of the world. 这个广袤神秘的地方为研究西藏 对其他地方的重要性提供了极其重要的线索

The monsoon which sustains this lush and fertile valley

多亏了高原的存在

owes its very existence to the Tibetan plateau.

才有了为绿色富饶峡谷带来活力的季风

Like a giant hotplate,the plateau heats up in the spring and summer.

高原像一个巨大的加热板 春夏温暖

The change in air pressure draws in warm moist air from the Indian Ocean in the south.

气压的变化引来了南面印度洋的温热潮湿的空气

Thanks to this, over a billion people from India to Burma

幸亏这样从印度到缅甸的十亿多人

benefit from the monsoon rain that this wind brings with it.

都得益于季风带来的季风雨

Tibet is the engine that drives the fertility of a whole subcontinent.

西藏就是保持整个次大陆肥沃的动力

But Tibet has an even greater role in the ecology of the region.

但是西藏在地区生态方面扮演着更重要的角色

Clues to this function are found in a legend that pre-dates even the ancient Tibetan culture

这个角色的线索可以追溯到古藏文化的传说当中

and which still draws pilgrims from all over the world.

而这个传说至今还吸引着来自全世界的朝圣者

Several world religions believe in a mythical mountain that's equivalent to the Garden of Eden.

世界上一些的宗教相信一座神话中的山是伊甸园般的存在

Its peak has four faces,aligned to the points of the compass,

它的顶部有四个面排成罗盘的四个方向

and from its summit four rivers are said to flow to the four quarters of the world.

从它的顶部有四条河流向世界的的四方

Thanks to its life-giving waters,

由于这里的生命之泉

this mountain is known as the "axis of the world. "

这座山被称为“世界屋脊”

In one of the remotest areas of Tibet,there's a place where this legend takes physical form.

在西藏最偏僻的区域之一有一个地方应验了这个传说

That place is Mount Kailash.

这就是伽拉萨山

By an uncanny coincidence,Mount Kailash perfectly matches the legend

机缘巧合的是伽拉萨山同

of the mythical axis of the world.

世界屋脊神话中的描述非常吻合

Its four faces are roughly aligned to the compass,

它的四个面大体向罗盘的四个方向

and four major rivers flow from its foothills.

还有四条主河从丘陵地带奔流

These are some of the most significant rivers in Asia.

他们是亚洲最重要的四条河

The Yarlung,which becomes India's Brahmaputra,

雅鲁藏布江形成了印度的布拉马普特拉河、

the Indus and Sutlej,which flow to Pakistan,

印度河和流经巴基斯坦的萨特累季河

and the Karnali,a major feeder for the Ganges.

以及恒河的主要支流-----卡那丽河

Thanks to its connection with the mythical mountain,

由于连接着神话般的高山

Kailash is so sacred that it has never been climbed.

卡伊拉什山令人感到神圣而从未被攀登过

It's Tibet's most important pilgrimage site.

它是朝圣者在西藏最重要的朝圣点

For Tibetans,pilgrimage is a journey from ignorance to enlightenment.

对于西藏人来说朝圣之旅是从无知到被教化的过程

A pilgrimage around the sacred mountain is believed to wipe out

环行圣山的朝圣者认为这样做可以消除一生的罪孽

the sins of a lifetime,increasing the chance of a better rebirth.

获得一个更好的来生

Most pilgrims time their visit for the most important festival in the Tibetan calendar.

大多数朝圣者把朝圣的时间安排在最重要的藏历节日之时

For over 1,000 years they have gathered at the foot of Kailash

一千多年以来他们聚集在卡伊拉什山脚

for the Saga Dawa festival to celebrate Buddha's enlightenment.

来庆祝萨嘎达瓦节感谢佛陀的教化

The festival climaxes with the raising of the newly dressed altar, a 25-metre flagpole.

当新装饰的圣坛上升起25米高的旗子时, 节日达到了高潮

The full entourage of Tibetan monks make the most of the occasion,

藏族僧侣的音乐祷文和祝福

with music,prayers,and blessings.

贯穿了节日的始终

Hundreds of fresh prayer flags are prepared and added to the pole.

他们准备了上百条新的祷告的旗子等着放到旗杆上面

The head lama's sacred scarf adds the final touch to the proceedings.

大喇嘛神圣的哈达给活动画上了句号

But the significance of Mount Kailash isn't confined to Buddhists alone.

但是卡伊拉什山的重要意义并不仅限于佛教徒

Other faiths venture to this remote place,

有其他信仰的人也都冒险来到这个遥远的地方

many from far beyond the Himalayas.

许多人是从比喜马拉雅山还远的地方过来的

Threatening to upstage the Buddhists,the Hindus arrive,

像是想要抢佛教徒的风头似的印度教徒来了

adding their own mix of colour and music.

把他们自己的色彩和音乐加入其中

When suitable respect has been paid,

在适当地表达一下敬意之后

it's time for the newly dressed prayer pole to be raised.

是时候竖立新装饰的旗杆了

The pole must end up straight

旗杆必须笔直

or it will be a bad omen for Tibet.

否则就是对西藏坏的征兆

At last the pole stands true and the new prayers can be blown to the heavens.

旗杆终于弄好了新的祷文也可以被风送到天堂了

Around this point,the power of the Tibetan landscape and the beliefs of many cultures converge.

在这一点上西藏山水的力量和许多文化的信仰汇集到了一起

More prayers, written on pieces of paper called "wind horses",are thrown into the air and flutter

更多祷文写在了叫做“风马旗”的纸上被吹到了空中

upwards towards the peak of Kailash,where the gods of the different faiths are believed to reside.

向上直到卡伊拉什顶峰具有不同 信仰的人都认为那里居住他们的神

Here at the axis of the world,is a rare vision of harmony.

在世界屋脊这里有世所罕见的和谐

For a few,there is one final but essential task to perform.

对一些人来说这里只有一个重要的终极目标

Buddhists believe in the concept of rebirth,and at Kailash

佛教徒相信有轮回认为在卡伊拉什山

the journey from one life to the next

从今生到来世的路上

is marked with an ancient but outlandish ritual.

都有古代神秘仪式的印迹

Tibetans believe there's no need to keep or bury the bodies of their dead,

西藏人认为没有必要保存或埋葬他们的尸体

since a departed life will already have kindled a new one elsewhere.

因为死亡的人已经在其他地方获得了新生

The word for burial in Tibetan means "giving offerings to the birds",

藏语中的埋葬的意思是“施舍喂鸟”

an act of generosity in line with the concept of compassion for all beings.

这种行为和他们怜悯一切生灵的观念是一致

By doing good deeds,Buddhists believe that they can contribute to the process of enlightenment.

佛教徒相信行善有益于他们的教化

So a sky burial at Kailash contributes to a brighter future.

所以在卡伊拉什天葬能获得更好的未来

There may be legends of mythical mountains and rivers that form the "axis of the world".

或许世界屋脊由关于山的神话和河流构成

But the Tibetan plateau itself,with its mountains,glaciers,and rivers,

但是青藏高原本身还有它的山峦、冰川、河流

and as the engine that drives the monsoon,

作为季风的推动者

lays fair claim to being the real axis of the world.

是名副其实的世界屋脊

Apart from feeding the rivers of India and Pakistan,

除了是印度和巴基斯坦的源头

Tibet's glaciers are the source of even more great rivers.

西藏的冰川还是更多主要河流的源头

Vietnam's Mekong,Burma's Salween and the Yangtze and the Yellow,

越南的湄公河缅甸的怒江雅鲁藏布江和黄河

both of which flow into China.

都流经中国

Each year,enough water flows from the Tibetan plateau

每年充足的水从青藏高原流出

to fill the entire Yellow River,the mother river of Chinese civilisation.

注入了黄河--中华文明的母亲河

Today in China alone,300 million people depend on water

现如今仅中国就有3亿人依靠

from the Tibetan plateau.

从青藏高原的流下的水生活

With its profound effect on Asia's weather and water systems,

由于对亚洲气候和水资源体系的深远影响

the Tibetan plateau helps to sustain almost half the world's population.

青藏高原养活了差不多一半的世界人口

For the moment,at least. 至少在现在就是这样

Close to the summit of Mount Everest,

在接近珠穆朗玛峰峰顶的地方

a forest of ice once covered much of the area.

冰层曾经覆盖过大部分的地域

But now, thanks to climate change,

但是现在由于气候的变化

much of it has gone.

大部分冰层消失了

Within the next 30 years

在接下来的30年里

it's predicted that 80% of the Tibetan glaciers could disappear.

预计西藏80%的冰川将会消失

In many ways, 从许多方面来说

Tibet's fragile environment is the barometer of our world.

西藏脆弱的环境是世界生态的晴雨表

What happens to it today,

它今天发生了什么，

in time will affect us all.

迟早会影响到所有人

美丽中国第三集中英文字幕